Spello and Bevagna: Two Umbrian Towns in One Day

Spello and Bevagna are two small towns a short drive apart in the valley south of Assisi, and together they make a varied and rewarding day. Spello, on a hillside of pale pink stone, is known for its flower-filled lanes and Pinturicchio’s frescoes in the Baglioni Chapel. Bevagna, down on the plain, is quiet and level, with Roman mosaics and a fine medieval square. Spello is on the railway; for Bevagna, a car is the practical choice.

Spello

What to see

• Santa Maria Maggiore and the Baglioni Chapel: the main church on the central street holds a chapel painted by Pinturicchio around 1500, with scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin. Look for the painter’s small self-portrait. A coin-operated light or an attendant may help you see the details.
• Roman gates: Spello was the Roman town of Hispellum, and several gates survive. Porta Consolare, near the lower entrance, and Porta Venere, flanked by two tall towers, are the most striking.
• Villa dei Mosaici: a Roman villa just outside the walls with well-preserved floor mosaics, presented under a modern roof.
• The lanes: Spello’s real charm is its narrow, stepped streets, where residents fill doorways, balconies and stairways with plants. Spring and early summer are the most colourful.
• Views: from the upper part of town and the Belvedere you look out over the valley towards Assisi and Monte Subasio.

The Infiorata

On the feast of Corpus Domini, usually in late May or June, Spello holds its Infiorata. Through the night before, groups of residents lay out carpets and pictures made of flower petals along the streets. Early on Sunday morning the town is a gallery of designs; later the procession passes over them. Expect crowds and plan accommodation well ahead. Check the municipality’s website for the current year’s programme.

Getting to Spello

Spello station is on the Perugia to Foligno line, one stop beyond Assisi. From the station, walk up through Porta Consolare into the old town. Drivers park in the car parks below the walls; the centre is a restricted traffic zone.

Bevagna

What to see

• Piazza Silvestri: an irregular medieval square with two Romanesque churches, San Silvestro and San Michele Arcangelo, facing each other, and the Palazzo dei Consoli, which houses a small historic theatre.
• Roman mosaic: the remains of Roman baths include a large black-and-white floor mosaic of sea creatures. It is a reminder that Bevagna, Roman Mevania, lay on a branch of the Via Flaminia.
• Medieval workshops: small museums and workshops show traditional crafts such as paper-making, candle-making and silk weaving, connected with the town’s festival.
• The town walls and riverside: a walk along the walls and the river shows the town’s quieter side.

Mercato delle Gaite

In June, Bevagna’s four quarters (the gaite) bring the Middle Ages back to life during the Mercato delle Gaite, with working craft shops, taverns and contests. The workshops are reconstructed with care and are open to visitors. Exact dates are announced each year.

Getting to Bevagna

Bevagna has no railway station. Buses run from Foligno, but they are not frequent. With a car, it is a short drive from Spello, Foligno or Montefalco.

Combining the two

Time	Plan
Morning	Spello: Santa Maria Maggiore, the lanes, the view from the upper town
Lunch	Spello or on the way to Bevagna
Afternoon	Bevagna: Piazza Silvestri, Roman mosaic, a craft workshop
Late afternoon	Optional: Montefalco for the view and a wine tasting (with a non-drinking driver)

Montefalco, a short drive from Bevagna, is the centre of Sagrantino wine production. Our guide to Umbrian wine explains the wine and the tasting etiquette.

When to go

Spring brings flowers to Spello’s streets and fresh green to the valley; autumn brings the grape and olive harvests. Summer is hot in Bevagna’s plain, so explore in the morning or evening. Both towns are much calmer than Assisi throughout the year.

Where to stay

Both towns have small hotels, guesthouses and apartments in historic buildings. The countryside around them is full of farm stays, many with views of Assisi or Montefalco. They make a calm base for touring.

Plan further

Spello pairs well with Assisi on the same railway line; see things to do in Assisi. Events in both towns are in our festival calendar, and a full week’s route is in our seven-day Umbria itinerary.